Ironmen of Surfing
from the Past to Present...
This site is dedicated to those in pursuit of the art of big wave surfing who became known as the Ironmen of Surfing...
Filipe Pomar rode a tsunami waves, this is the description and the reason why it's never been told in his own words.
When we paddled out the waves were shoulder high and half an hour later they were approximately the size of the wave in thi...s picture (Peru wave....... but no pictures were taken of the actual tsunami waves.).
I did not tell the story for many years out of respect for the hundreds of people who were killed by the earthquake that generated the tsunami.
The board in this picture is a replica of the board I used. Shaped by Robin Meir and currently exhibited at Surfing Heritage Cultural Center.
Big wave surfing is a discipline within surfing in which experienced surfers paddle into or are towed onto waves which are at least 20 feet (6.2 m) high, on surfboards known as "guns" or "rhino chasers". Sizes of the board needed to successfully surf these waves vary by the size of the wave as well as the technique the surfer uses to reach the wave.
Surfers have gone on to break Greg Noll's big wave record, but we need not forget that Greg was out by himself with no one else, no leash, or jetski rescue team.
"Thanks for the acknowledgement and support. I will pass this info on to dad. He will be proud and stoked to be a part of your list and mentioned with the others on there".
Aloha,
Jed Noll
Shane Dorian and Shawn Dollar are leaders in the true meaning of big wave surfing by padding into over 50 feet. Shawn now holds record at 61 feet.
In 1992, big wave surfers such as Laird Hamilton and Darrick Doerner introduced a cross over sport called tow in surfing. While many riders still participate in both sports, they remain very distinct activities. This type of surfing involves being towed into massive waves by jet ski, allowing for the speed needed to successfully ride a shorter board.
New jet boards are being developed every day, but my heart will always be with the guys that paddle in over the ledge...
